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Palawan

The last frontier: limestone lagoons, wreck diving and the slowest beaches in the country.

Where to go in Palawan

El Nido and Coron carry the postcards, but Palawan rewards going further: Port Barton slows the pace, San Vicente stretches the sand, and Balabac empties it completely. Distances are long and roads are slow - pick two or three and give each one real days.

El NidoLagoons

El Nido

The big one. Island-hopping through Bacuit Bay's lagoons and hidden beaches - crowded in season, magical if you time it early.

CoronWreck diving

Coron

WWII shipwrecks, Kayangan Lake and the small-island scenery of the Calamianes. Quieter evenings than El Nido.

Port BartonSlow beach town

Port Barton

Our home base and the anti-El-Nido: one sandy street, island trips without the queues, sunsets that end the day.

Puerto PrincesaThe gateway

Puerto Princesa

Where most flights land. The underground river day trip is worth it; the city itself is a one-night stop.

San VicenteLong Beach

San Vicente

Fourteen kilometres of near-empty sand an hour north of Port Barton. Go before the rest of the world does.

TaytayHistoric bay

Taytay

A 17th-century Spanish fort on a calm bay, and the jumping-off point for the northern reefs.

BalabacThe far south

Balabac

Empty islands and blinding sandbars at the very tip. Expedition logistics, few facilities, unreal water.

LinapacanClearest water

Linapacan

Fifty-two barely inhabited islands between El Nido and Coron, with some of the clearest water on Earth.

SabangJungle and caves

Sabang

The underground river paddles into a mountain two hours from the city; the beach outside stays quiet.

CuyoRemote outpost

Cuyo

The old island capital halfway to Panay: a 17th-century fort, capiz windows and empty shores.